Thoughts on Leaving the Old World

As you likely know, I am an aviation contractor living in Germany working for a defense contractor on US Army, and other allies, helicopters. It has been an exciting time for me as I learned quite a bit from a variety of people whose experiences run the gamut from the armed services of the US, Great Britain, South Africa, the former-Rhodesia, Germany and others, to manufacturers such as Airbus and Boeing, to people have have contracted nearly all their careers. It has been a really wonderful experience professionally.

And, of course, outside work I have met people who escaped communism by fleeing or by simply walking away as the weight of socialism came crashing down around them. There is the one who fought against Robert Mugabe with the Rhodesian Air Force, and the retired Deutsche Post (German Post Office) worker raised as Hitler Youth. There was Kurt, the former East German who built and serviced cranes worldwide, and who rode to Daytona's Bike Week on a Kawasaki. He was welcomed with open arms when he feigned a lack of English-language proficiency and laid on a thick German accent ("You can't come in here on THAT!" 'Bitte?' "Where're you from?" 'Deutschla.., uh, Germany.') So many stories, so much rich history, and I have found that it IS true that a big difference between Europeans and Americans is that Americans think 300 years is a long time, and that Europeans think 300 miles is a long trip (even if you can take it in your car at 200 mph!)
There are many things I will miss in Europe. The incredible history that is literally around EVERY corner is certainly one. The incredible public transportation system is another. The extensive bike trails and lanes all over the country are very useful, and I have made extensive use of them almost daily, commuting on my bicycle 11 kilometers (about 6.7 miles) to-and-from work each way.

And despite the German reputation for arrogance, I have found them to be very kind and welcoming as soon as they realized I was trying to learn their language and customs. It can be frustrating to try and learn a language and after saying something in the second language, having the person you're speaking to answer in English, "Can I help you?" or "Is there anything else?" Realizing I was trying to learn, their compassionate answer was to make it easier by speaking to me in English. I was so tempted on many occasions to say, "Yes! Please reply in German so I can learn!"

I will miss the English Church of Heidelberg, a wonderful, small, Anglican congregation with a parish deep in Old Heidelberg. Sharing the parish with a local Old Catholic congegration, Easter Service/Mass was incredible as a joint, dual language service in German and English. The English Church has German, Nigerian, British, American members, as well as one from Sierra Leone.

But, there are things I won't miss here. I will NOT miss US Army Garrison Baden-Wuerttemburg and their seemingly callous attitudes toward the people they support. Over a year before shutting down the local bases in Mannheim, the USO and library were closed! Additionally, the post theatre was shut down for renovations, reopened, and then closed less than a month later with signs posted stating the building had been deemed unsafe! (Your US tax dollars at work.)

I will NOT miss German radio. Folks if you think American radio programming is bad, try pulling up some German station on the internet. It's almost completely American Top 40, hip-hop and Euro-pop. The irony is that the concert scene here is unbelievable! Appearing here in Mannheim since I have arrived were Santana, Molly Hatchet, Skorpions, Peter Gabriel and so many others. Don't look for them on the radio, though.

Another thing I won't miss is the litter. Litter is all over the place here. Smoking is part or the cultural identity here and cigarette butts are everywhere, along with bottles, wrappers, boxes, paper, fast-food wrappers and cups. I have seen people standing outdoors beside a municipal waste basket toss their trash on the ground and walk away. Seemingly, there is no sense of personal responsibility concerning keeping their town and country clean.

Graffitti is everywhere, too. It is pervasive, and most of it is surprisingly artistic! I have even encountered a shop in Heidelberg's Old Town that catered to graffitti 'artists'!

While I like the autobahn and the freedom to drive as fast as I feel I can do safely, I'm not at all fond of Germany's other roads. It is amazing how many major roadways inside towns will be four lanes wide with a large median in the middle, lined with trees and flowers, and will end abruptly with no outlet whatsoever. Of course, on my bicycle, I can just take off down the nearest alley, sidewalk or path. And I have.

So, as I prepare to go home to South Carolina, I am excited about what adventure the Lord will send me on to next. I have yet to visit Auschwitz, Luxembourg or the other four mini-nations here in Europe. Sadly, too, I haven't been able to visit old friends in France, England and Ireland. But, I'm hopeful those opportunities will come. Time will tell.

Deutschland Update - 14 July 2010

I’ve been in Germany now since 27 April, or eleven weeks, and I have finally had my first major encounter with European wildlife today. First there was the hare that hopped across my path. But, I was in for a much bigger surprise a few minutes later.

First, let’s update since my last post.

Since then, I have traveled to Southwestern Spain for twelve days/eleven nights for work. It was interesting to see Rota, as I had passed through some ten years ago. There were quite a few changes to the US/Spanish naval base, and the town. Much has been added to both and it still kept its charm.

Additionally, a colleague and I took full advantage of a day when we were released early and took a short trip to the British bastion of Gibraltar. This small outpost of all that is the Empire, is at once vibrant and claustrophobic. I will expand on this encounter in the future.

I took the break in working in Germany to move to another small city outside Mannheim, Viernheim. It is a quaint and cozy town and I find that I am enjoying the move much. I ride my bike about 12 kilometers (about 7 miles) to work every day through the Kaefertal Wald (“Wood”), and return in the evening. The small forest is the home of numerous biking and walking trails, paved, graveled and grass, and holds a restaurant, rec areas and the Mannheim Wasserwerke (water works).

The city water here is terrible, and I am able to taste the bromide and fluoride, along with the hint of mineral within the water. It is truly bad. But, across the trail from the Wasserwerke is a natural spring that has been properly plumbed and I stop daily and fill my water bottles with tolerably good water!

Recently, there was all of five hours of darkness due to the northerly location. This and the performance of the German Soccer Team in the World Cup had most Germans up very late! I couldn’t participate, even if I had wanted, as I am currently working 6 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and go to sleep rather early at 9 p.m., or so.

So, I awoke at 4:30 this morning, prepped, dressed and grabbed my lunch. I am usually on the road no later than 5:15 for my 35-to-40-minute ride to work. The ride was quite enjoyable, as the morning temperatures here have been in the 50’s and 60’s. I saw my hare and continued through the Wald. Suddenly, I saw a large boar trot out of the woods in front of me. Standing about three feet tall and sporting tusks at least four inches, he quickly got my attention and I hit the brakes.

The skidding of my wheels got his attention and he bolted just as I saw the other six-to-eight pigs that had yet to emerge form the woods! The big boar bolted across to the right and the rest of the sounder bolted in the direction that I was traveling. We all moved quickly in three parallel paths before my flanking escort broke off their flight, and I continued on my way to work.

There I continued my work on helicopters and had other encounters today with US, Dutch, German and French military personnel. But, all that was quite anti-climactic. The trip home was uneventful. Thankfully.

My New Life?

Well, I have now been in Germany for over two weeks. My wife swears it's a month. I suspect she's trying to make me feel good...

When I was offered this job, I was unsure whether it was what I needed to do. Last year I discerned within the Episcopal Church for the priesthood, and was found to not yet be ready. It was disappointing, but I trusted that the committee was under the Lord's influence. Therefore, I told the company on the day I spoke with them that I would have an answer that Thursday morning, after talking with my family and praying. That Wednesday, over a period of fourteen hours, I watched as the Lord tied up every end that could possibly keep me in the US.

I told my wife, Darlene, that we should sell off everything we own (except for family heirlooms which we'd put in storage) and "become gypsies for the next fifteen years. We'll retire when I'm sixty-five, buy or build a little bungalow, and retire to our rockers, hobbies and travels. She readily agreed. We already have our first weekend trip to Liechtenstein planned for when she arrives later this year.

I'm living currently in the southwest of Germany in the Mannheim area. I have been enjoying exploring my new job, the area, and this interesting, new language. One of the things that has impressed me about Mannheim is the transit system. This place is somewhere between the size of Columbia, South Carolina and Charlotte, North Carolina. The RNV (Rhein-Neckar Verkehrsverbund, or Rhine-Necker Traffic Group in English) is a thoroughly modern transit organization that covers the Mannheim and Heidelburg areas and the area in between. For about $300-a-month I can buy a pass to take me anywhere on the system for that month. Not too bad, but I also, along with everyone else here, pay a 19% Value-Added-Tax on EVERYTHING that is bought here. That's on top of all other taxes Germans pay.

Ford and Chevrolet market models here unseen in America, as does Smart Car. They have at least two other models, one of which is a nifty, little sports car. You can also buy a Peugeot (French), Skoda (Czech), though I've yet to see a Lada (Russian) or a Yugo (Thank God!).

Even with all the choices, I doubt I will buy a car. You can get nearly anywhere in the area on RNV, as long as you are in Baden-Wurttemburg state. I am staying across the state line in Hessen, in an old town named Lampertheim. Founded in 832, or thereabout, it is a clean and comely, bedroom community that contrasts with a grittier, industrial Mannheim. My first impression was The Village from the AMC mini-series "The Prisoner." My second thought was the town in the movie "Truman." Clean and quaint, though the scourge of spray-paint graffitti is quite prevalent.

I am living currently in a hotel room that is small. The room is approximately 10x15 feet including a small bath. But I have German TV, and CNN Europe in English. I have the ONLY balcony room in the place. At 20 euros-a-night, I can't beat it or complain.

I work on an American Army compound, Coleman Barracks, for a defense contractor. I am doing essentially what I have done for the past fifteen years for the South Carolina National Guard, working on Army helicopters. Ironically, my first job on the hangar floor was on a Koninklijke Luchtmacht (Royal Netherlands Air Force) AH-64D Apache.

Some of the things I've encountered have raised my eyebrows. There's the "Everything's a Euro" store, and yes, it IS what you would think. There's also Woolworth's stores still here. There's also footbal, American-style. The Weinheim Longhorns play here. And a convertible Mini Cooper will cost you $24,000.

The weather here is everything I've ever heard. The week I arrived it was quite warm (highs in the 80's, lows in the fifties.) More recently, it has turned into Seattle weather - cold and damp. I've joked that they should have contests in the papers: "Draw the Sun, Win a Prize!"

Nevertheless, the area has entertainment possibilities that blow my mind. I could never imagine such back home in my area. Mannheim has a ballet (I've met one of their ballerinas, a 21-year-old Australian who also tends bar at a local Irish Pub). The city is currently co-hosting the International Ice Hockey Federation World Championships. Additionally, upcoming concerts by Skorpions, a-ha, Deep Purple and Simply Red, to name just four, have caught my eye.

Culturally, the Turkish population in Germany is to this country what Mexicans are in the US. Turkish restaurants abound, and like most food, I like it. I've also discovered a wonderful Italian store in Lampertheim that specializes in meats, wine and cheeses from Italy. And an ice cream stand near that store has wonderful treats.

Most importantly, I have found a church. The English Church Heidelberg meets in a former convent chapel in the old portion of the city. This area was spared allied bombing in World War Two. The building is small (four rooms if you consider the narthex/lobby, the bell tower, and the main parish), but the church membership is vibrant with a Briton raised in California and his family, some German Anglicans, a wonderful lady from Sierra Leone, to name but a few. Additionally, we have a world-circuit riding Kiwi priest and his wife, who will be here for five more weeks. The building is shared with an Old Catholic church, whose priest serves communion twice-a-month to we Anglicans when we lack a priest.

So, here I am. I'm still unsure about exactly what God wants of me here. But, whatever it is, I am anxious to enjoy Europe as do His work!

Whatever that may be.