Communists and Nazis - A Witnesses' View

My time in Germany as a contractor was challenging, exhausting, and fun. I worked with a fine group of people, generally, though much of the management and leadership left much to be desired. There WERE some outstanding leaders there, but they could not overcome the many others that should not have been there.

But that's another story, altogether.

While there I met some wonderful people who had so many stories to tell. And many did. One of those was Janine, an wonderful, older woman who worked at the Gasthaus where my wife and I stayed for most of the 22 months we were in Europe. My wife stands in front of the establishment below.

 

I offended Janine one day. I asked where in Germany she was from.

"Do I look German to you?" she asked aghast. Janine was a flaxen-haired woman with nicotine-stained teeth. She carried the beauty of her youth, though clearly aged, with dignity, style, and determination. My only answer was, "Honestly Janine, everyone looks American to me!" 

America is a nation of immigrants after all.

"I am Polish!" announced Janine as she struck a regal pose. Then she told me her story.

But first, a story of war and invasion. 

Poland was formed from diplomacy and conquest in the aftermath of World War One. It's bulk was carved from the carcass of eastern Prussia, and expanded after wars against Republican Russia, the new nation of Ukraine, and the newly formed Soviet Union. It was a nation widely known for its martial traditions. Poles had fought with and against the Russian Empire, with the Prussians and the Germans (after German unification), and with Napoleon, always with the eye to reestablish the Polish nation.

Janine was born in the portion of Poland that had been Ukraine before the Polish conquest. It was this part of Poland that the USSR was granted in the secret Ribbentrop-Molotov Treaty the week prior to the launch of World War Two. After the Nazi invasion, the USSR invaded eastern Poland two-and-a-half weeks later, retaking the land they believed to be theirs. Janine, a child at the time, and her mother (I assume her father was fighting the Germans or Soviets, or was conscripted into what was essentially slave labor for the conquerors) found themselves under the communist yoke for the next 21 months.

Then, Nazi Germany launched Operation Barbarossa, the invasion of the Soviet Union. Very quickly Janine found herself under the rule of Nazis for nearly two years. 

German fortunes turned catastrophically in February 1943 at Stalingrad (now the city of Volgograd) and saw the steady and inexorable retreat that eventually led to defeat in 1945. Meanwhile, as the Soviets advanced steadily toward their home, Janine's mother had to make the decision to await liberation by the USSR's Red Army, or to run away with the Nazis.

They chose the Nazis.

"Really?" I asked. "Why?"

"The Nazis were much better and kinder than the communists." Apparently, it wasn't a difficult decision. 

Photo: Deutsche Fotothek of the Saxon State Library / State and University Library Dresden. Original caption: "Mann repariert Fahrradschlauch - Frauen holen Wasser am Brunnen auf der Straße" (This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Germany license.)

Janine's family settled in Bavaria, in then-West Germany. She would go on to work for DeutscheBank in their office in Tripoli, Libya, where she would witness the US airstrikes against Libya's Gaddafi Regime after their attack on US troops at a night club in Germany. 

In some ways, I envied her view of some of the most striking events in history. But, on the other hand...

If anything, her insights into a system that was WORSE than Nazism were a revelation. For that, I am forever grateful.

 

Back in the USA

Well, I’m home from Germany. It was snowing the day I left, the first time in over a month. Ironically, I was in Southern Germany six days earlier and saw quite a bit of snow in Stuttgart.

A week earlier I had gone with a friend, Corwin Gal, north to Gothenburg, Sweden. He was picking up his new Volvo at the factory and asked if I would like to go along as his co-driver. Gothenburg was bare of snow! Sweden was really interesting. What I found surprising was that everyone I met there spoke excellent English. When we arrived at the hotel, I asked whether they spoke English, fully prepared to ask if they spoke German if the answer was “no.” The young woman behind the desk looked and said, “Of course I speak English!” In my mind I was thinking, ‘Of course? Hey, I’m in Sweden. What else would you speak?’ Much of the television programming, like most of Europe, is American and British English language shows. For instance, I watched NCIS in English on Swedish TV, with Swedish subtitles. There are less than ten million Swedes, so it’s not cost effective to dub over the shows in Swedish.

Denmark, like Sweden, was incredibly expensive. Our meal in Copenhagen cost us $70 each! I would leave Europe with Euros, Swedish Kroner and Danish Kronor, and US dollars in my wallet. Most interestingly, to me, were the differences between the close Scandinavian neighbors. Sweden was easily the most “American” European nation I saw. Large autos predominate, and the streets, despite the age of the cities, were wide. Additionally, outside the cities were wide open spaces and large homes. The terrain reminded me a great deal of the Delmarva Peninsula.

Copenhagen, on the other hand, was a more typical European city. Their difference was the MASSIVE use of bicycles, even in the dead of winter. Every street in Copenhagen had bike lanes and everyone, it seemed, was riding a bike in the January cold. Bicycle racks were more common than auto parking spaces, and to be honest, it was a good thing. If all the people in Copenhagen had cars instead of bicycles, Corwin and I would STILL be stuck in Danish traffic!

So, I made it through the clearing process, mailed home my tools, and packed my bags. Clearing German Customs and the normal hassle through security were surprisingly easy. The flight wasn’t uneventful, as the Delta Air Lines Boeing 777 was improperly loaded and out of CG, so as we began taxiing away from the gate at Frankfurt Main Airport were quickly diverted to another spot on the ramp and a pallet was unloaded from the aircraft. As we pulled up to have the pallet unloaded the pilot announced that he anticipated a ten-minute delay. 57 minutes later we finally taxied out to the runway. As a result, we took off an hour late. Happily, the airplane was nowhere near full so I and everyone else were able to stretch out in their own row. Nice.

The flight was smooth, but there was cloud cover all over Europe. It began to break up at the Western Irish coast, but was spotty over the Atlantic. I tried hard to spot icebergs, Iceland and Greenland from 30,000 feet, but all I saw was occasional whitecaps. Thankfully, the clouds cleared completely just before Labrador, Canada. Watching the ice pack and bare coast of the Canadian Shield, covered in snow was amazing. I observed a small town (maybe 30-to-40 buildings) below on the Northeast Canadian coast with an airstrip above on the hilltop, and a single road leading out of town to literally nowhere. And I think I spied a famous ice road.

Since arriving in South Carolina, I’ve been to the South Carolina Department of Employment and Workforce (now THERE’S an awkward title), and I’ve called and gone online to the Texas Workforce Commission. I bought a new sink and plumbing items, began to tear out our second bathroom, and have had to begin training my daughter’s dog to stay off the furniture and the bed, and the cats to stay off the kitchen table and counters (yuck!), as the wife will not discipline the animals.

Additionally, I bought a new 18-inch Husqvarna chain saw, and I’ve cut and cleared some trees and stumps in the yard, pulled up some vines, and burned it all in the backyard. We threw a party the week after I arrived and had a wonderful time with friends and family. AND there’s the unpacking. Clothes, books, magazines, tools, etcetera. On the upside, everyone loved their gifts.

So far, what I miss about Europe is the incredible food and the history. I also miss responsible, educated drivers and the laws and law enforcement enforcing those laws. I DON’T miss the traffic cameras.

Thoughts on Leaving the Old World

As you likely know, I am an aviation contractor living in Germany working for a defense contractor on US Army, and other allies, helicopters. It has been an exciting time for me as I learned quite a bit from a variety of people whose experiences run the gamut from the armed services of the US, Great Britain, South Africa, the former-Rhodesia, Germany and others, to manufacturers such as Airbus and Boeing, to people have have contracted nearly all their careers. It has been a really wonderful experience professionally.

And, of course, outside work I have met people who escaped communism by fleeing or by simply walking away as the weight of socialism came crashing down around them. There is the one who fought against Robert Mugabe with the Rhodesian Air Force, and the retired Deutsche Post (German Post Office) worker raised as Hitler Youth. There was Kurt, the former East German who built and serviced cranes worldwide, and who rode to Daytona's Bike Week on a Kawasaki. He was welcomed with open arms when he feigned a lack of English-language proficiency and laid on a thick German accent ("You can't come in here on THAT!" 'Bitte?' "Where're you from?" 'Deutschla.., uh, Germany.') So many stories, so much rich history, and I have found that it IS true that a big difference between Europeans and Americans is that Americans think 300 years is a long time, and that Europeans think 300 miles is a long trip (even if you can take it in your car at 200 mph!)
There are many things I will miss in Europe. The incredible history that is literally around EVERY corner is certainly one. The incredible public transportation system is another. The extensive bike trails and lanes all over the country are very useful, and I have made extensive use of them almost daily, commuting on my bicycle 11 kilometers (about 6.7 miles) to-and-from work each way.

And despite the German reputation for arrogance, I have found them to be very kind and welcoming as soon as they realized I was trying to learn their language and customs. It can be frustrating to try and learn a language and after saying something in the second language, having the person you're speaking to answer in English, "Can I help you?" or "Is there anything else?" Realizing I was trying to learn, their compassionate answer was to make it easier by speaking to me in English. I was so tempted on many occasions to say, "Yes! Please reply in German so I can learn!"

I will miss the English Church of Heidelberg, a wonderful, small, Anglican congregation with a parish deep in Old Heidelberg. Sharing the parish with a local Old Catholic congegration, Easter Service/Mass was incredible as a joint, dual language service in German and English. The English Church has German, Nigerian, British, American members, as well as one from Sierra Leone.

But, there are things I won't miss here. I will NOT miss US Army Garrison Baden-Wuerttemburg and their seemingly callous attitudes toward the people they support. Over a year before shutting down the local bases in Mannheim, the USO and library were closed! Additionally, the post theatre was shut down for renovations, reopened, and then closed less than a month later with signs posted stating the building had been deemed unsafe! (Your US tax dollars at work.)

I will NOT miss German radio. Folks if you think American radio programming is bad, try pulling up some German station on the internet. It's almost completely American Top 40, hip-hop and Euro-pop. The irony is that the concert scene here is unbelievable! Appearing here in Mannheim since I have arrived were Santana, Molly Hatchet, Skorpions, Peter Gabriel and so many others. Don't look for them on the radio, though.

Another thing I won't miss is the litter. Litter is all over the place here. Smoking is part or the cultural identity here and cigarette butts are everywhere, along with bottles, wrappers, boxes, paper, fast-food wrappers and cups. I have seen people standing outdoors beside a municipal waste basket toss their trash on the ground and walk away. Seemingly, there is no sense of personal responsibility concerning keeping their town and country clean.

Graffitti is everywhere, too. It is pervasive, and most of it is surprisingly artistic! I have even encountered a shop in Heidelberg's Old Town that catered to graffitti 'artists'!

While I like the autobahn and the freedom to drive as fast as I feel I can do safely, I'm not at all fond of Germany's other roads. It is amazing how many major roadways inside towns will be four lanes wide with a large median in the middle, lined with trees and flowers, and will end abruptly with no outlet whatsoever. Of course, on my bicycle, I can just take off down the nearest alley, sidewalk or path. And I have.

So, as I prepare to go home to South Carolina, I am excited about what adventure the Lord will send me on to next. I have yet to visit Auschwitz, Luxembourg or the other four mini-nations here in Europe. Sadly, too, I haven't been able to visit old friends in France, England and Ireland. But, I'm hopeful those opportunities will come. Time will tell.

Further Observations of Europe

Since my last post I have been home for a week, celebrating my 30th wedding anniversary, and taking home those three bottles of Ruppertsberger wine. It was a wonderful week, and the wine was surprisingly good, in my opinion.

Also, too, a colleague and I took a two-day trip over the July 4th weekend through southern Germany, western Austria, Liechtenstein, and northern Switzerland, overnighting in the heart of downtown Zurich. Liechtenstein, the fourth smallest nation on earth, is a delightful and charming place, barely 45 square miles and 22,000 citizens, and perhaps another 14,000 additional residents. Surprisingly diverse for such a small nation, it is a parliamentary monarchy boasting a new parliament building, and a beautiful and extensive National Museum. It was there that I learned of a generally unknown bit of World War II history concerning Liechtenstein.

I knew that during the war, the Germans recruited through the SS thousands (perhaps as many as a million!) of foreign soldiers. These troops came from every European nation, and in many cases there were enough to form separate companies, battalions, brigades and even divisions. The largest of these included the Russian Liberation Army (Русская освободительная армия) or POA. Not surprisingly, the Soviets labeled POA soldiers as traitors and at the war's end, POA soldiers were repatriated in accordance with allied agreements. They were tried and sentenced to death or detention in the infamous Gulag prison camps. Several leaders of the POA were tried and hanged in Moscow on August 1, 1946.

Interestingly, Liechtenstein ignored Soviet demands for extradition of a group of POA soldiers who entered Liechtenstein asking for political asylum. Most eventually emigrated to Argentina, though a small handful stayed in the Principality.

Our trip south was exclusively on the world-famous autobahns, the model for America's Interstates. Just as famously, autobahns GENERALLY have no speed limits. The exception is in built-up areas and construction zones. Reunification has soaked up huge amounts of funds, with the rebuilding of the eastern part of Germany leaving much to be neglected in the west. But, now necessary rebuilding and repair is ongoing in the west and construction zones are rampant. So, while shifting into 6th gear at 160km/h (100 mph) in my BMW rental, and holding it steady at 200 was really cool, the speed was frequently cut to 60 and 80 km/h in these zones.

And in Germany, what we refer to as "cloverleaf" are know in Germany as "Dreieck," an exact translation being "Triangle." In both cases, of course, it doesn't matter what shape the junction may be, the name's the same!

One of the things I have attempted here is to learn German. My experience at home has caused me to believe that it is rude to live in a nation and not learn it's language. So, I have endeavored to NOT be "That Guy," and to learn the local lingo. And much like American english, German has many different regional variations. An excellent example is numbers.

For instance, the number 20 can be pronounced three differnt ways that I'm aware of, and I have used all three - zwanzig, zwanzisch, and zwanzid. But, the greatest difficulty I have had is that as soon the German I'm speaking with understands that I am a foreigner trying to learn and speak German, they almost inevitably begin speaking english - "May I help you?" I always smile and continue the conversation in english, thinking, "Yeah, you can help by speaking German so that I can learn!" I have learned to say that I am a foreigner and that my German is poor. I have also tried hard to get the accent correct, too, even being asked once if I was Polish?! I smiled and answered "Amerikaner," to the very quizzical look of the inquirer. Belgians and Swiss kindly spoke German or English to me, just like the Germans. While in Spain, though, I found the locals seemed to refuse to speak english, even though they lived next to an American navy base! I did wonder if it had anything to do with the Spanish-British disagreement over Gibralter?

One other thing about Spain, at least in the Andalusia southwest, was the incredible staccato speed of the annunciation. I work with native Spanish speakers (Puerto Rican, Mexican, and a Spaniard) and some of them had difficulty understanding Andalusian Spanish!

Speaking of language, I have mentioned that I work with a number of Britons, and we constantly joke and bicker about the language, very much in good fun. The cultures are similar, but there are differences. One I like to emphasize is that Americans believe 300 years is a long time, and the British believe 300 miles is a long trip. One of my British colleagues looked at me seriously and stated, "But it IS a long trip!" I just smiled, as another of my colleagues, an American, replied emphatically, "No, it's not!" And it was in that vein that I was AMAZED that my trip through four countries (second paragraph) took a total of less than eight hours of driving time!

So far, I have found that my belief that the Lord brought me here is justified. My bonus has been to travel to ten different countries and Gibraltar in the sixteen months that I've been here. And if I had not taken this job, I would currently be looking for new employment. Many of my colleagues where I used to work are being released and retired. So, yes, the Lord does work in strange and mysterious ways.

And, I'm grateful.

Grafitti Surprise

There have been a few surprises here in Germany for me. I was caught off guard at the high cost of living, for one. If their is anything I've found truly surprising is the prevalence of grafitti everywhere. And what is really surprising is the quality of the artistry!

Now we've all seen the variety of grafitti all over America. Most of it really is of poor quality, much of it being gang symbols and marks. The closest thing I've encountered to gangs here in Europe was a couple of young teenage boys on the local trolley. Dressed in the current gang attire, with baggy pants, bandanas, and hats worn sideways, they were listening to hip hop as they sat. My first thought was, "you two wouldn't last two seconds in South Central (Los Angeles)." Of course, it would occur to anyone that a 'drive-by' would be a bit tough from a trolley!

So, without the gang grafitti, the art is quite good, and apparently tolerated. Bright, colorful, cartoon-like, serious, beautiful, frightening, realistic, graphic - it's all there. And unlike in the States, though, there seems to be a sense of discipline with grafittists here that American "practitionists" lack. Trains roll by here generally unscarred by "spray bomb," though solitary buildings, walls, posts, and the like are mostly covered and 'tagged'. Some efforts are made by owners to clean and repaint vandalized areas, but as in America, the efforts are mostly useless. I saw a building that had had construction completed one day, and was completely covered by grafitti within two days!

The biggest shock was the discovery in Old Heidelberg of a grafitti store! This shop had clothing, and mostly spray paint cans of nearly every color! It was an amazing display of acceptable vandalism!

Only in Germany, I guess!

Deutschland Update - 14 July 2010

I’ve been in Germany now since 27 April, or eleven weeks, and I have finally had my first major encounter with European wildlife today. First there was the hare that hopped across my path. But, I was in for a much bigger surprise a few minutes later.

First, let’s update since my last post.

Since then, I have traveled to Southwestern Spain for twelve days/eleven nights for work. It was interesting to see Rota, as I had passed through some ten years ago. There were quite a few changes to the US/Spanish naval base, and the town. Much has been added to both and it still kept its charm.

Additionally, a colleague and I took full advantage of a day when we were released early and took a short trip to the British bastion of Gibraltar. This small outpost of all that is the Empire, is at once vibrant and claustrophobic. I will expand on this encounter in the future.

I took the break in working in Germany to move to another small city outside Mannheim, Viernheim. It is a quaint and cozy town and I find that I am enjoying the move much. I ride my bike about 12 kilometers (about 7 miles) to work every day through the Kaefertal Wald (“Wood”), and return in the evening. The small forest is the home of numerous biking and walking trails, paved, graveled and grass, and holds a restaurant, rec areas and the Mannheim Wasserwerke (water works).

The city water here is terrible, and I am able to taste the bromide and fluoride, along with the hint of mineral within the water. It is truly bad. But, across the trail from the Wasserwerke is a natural spring that has been properly plumbed and I stop daily and fill my water bottles with tolerably good water!

Recently, there was all of five hours of darkness due to the northerly location. This and the performance of the German Soccer Team in the World Cup had most Germans up very late! I couldn’t participate, even if I had wanted, as I am currently working 6 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and go to sleep rather early at 9 p.m., or so.

So, I awoke at 4:30 this morning, prepped, dressed and grabbed my lunch. I am usually on the road no later than 5:15 for my 35-to-40-minute ride to work. The ride was quite enjoyable, as the morning temperatures here have been in the 50’s and 60’s. I saw my hare and continued through the Wald. Suddenly, I saw a large boar trot out of the woods in front of me. Standing about three feet tall and sporting tusks at least four inches, he quickly got my attention and I hit the brakes.

The skidding of my wheels got his attention and he bolted just as I saw the other six-to-eight pigs that had yet to emerge form the woods! The big boar bolted across to the right and the rest of the sounder bolted in the direction that I was traveling. We all moved quickly in three parallel paths before my flanking escort broke off their flight, and I continued on my way to work.

There I continued my work on helicopters and had other encounters today with US, Dutch, German and French military personnel. But, all that was quite anti-climactic. The trip home was uneventful. Thankfully.

My New Life?

Well, I have now been in Germany for over two weeks. My wife swears it's a month. I suspect she's trying to make me feel good...

When I was offered this job, I was unsure whether it was what I needed to do. Last year I discerned within the Episcopal Church for the priesthood, and was found to not yet be ready. It was disappointing, but I trusted that the committee was under the Lord's influence. Therefore, I told the company on the day I spoke with them that I would have an answer that Thursday morning, after talking with my family and praying. That Wednesday, over a period of fourteen hours, I watched as the Lord tied up every end that could possibly keep me in the US.

I told my wife, Darlene, that we should sell off everything we own (except for family heirlooms which we'd put in storage) and "become gypsies for the next fifteen years. We'll retire when I'm sixty-five, buy or build a little bungalow, and retire to our rockers, hobbies and travels. She readily agreed. We already have our first weekend trip to Liechtenstein planned for when she arrives later this year.

I'm living currently in the southwest of Germany in the Mannheim area. I have been enjoying exploring my new job, the area, and this interesting, new language. One of the things that has impressed me about Mannheim is the transit system. This place is somewhere between the size of Columbia, South Carolina and Charlotte, North Carolina. The RNV (Rhein-Neckar Verkehrsverbund, or Rhine-Necker Traffic Group in English) is a thoroughly modern transit organization that covers the Mannheim and Heidelburg areas and the area in between. For about $300-a-month I can buy a pass to take me anywhere on the system for that month. Not too bad, but I also, along with everyone else here, pay a 19% Value-Added-Tax on EVERYTHING that is bought here. That's on top of all other taxes Germans pay.

Ford and Chevrolet market models here unseen in America, as does Smart Car. They have at least two other models, one of which is a nifty, little sports car. You can also buy a Peugeot (French), Skoda (Czech), though I've yet to see a Lada (Russian) or a Yugo (Thank God!).

Even with all the choices, I doubt I will buy a car. You can get nearly anywhere in the area on RNV, as long as you are in Baden-Wurttemburg state. I am staying across the state line in Hessen, in an old town named Lampertheim. Founded in 832, or thereabout, it is a clean and comely, bedroom community that contrasts with a grittier, industrial Mannheim. My first impression was The Village from the AMC mini-series "The Prisoner." My second thought was the town in the movie "Truman." Clean and quaint, though the scourge of spray-paint graffitti is quite prevalent.

I am living currently in a hotel room that is small. The room is approximately 10x15 feet including a small bath. But I have German TV, and CNN Europe in English. I have the ONLY balcony room in the place. At 20 euros-a-night, I can't beat it or complain.

I work on an American Army compound, Coleman Barracks, for a defense contractor. I am doing essentially what I have done for the past fifteen years for the South Carolina National Guard, working on Army helicopters. Ironically, my first job on the hangar floor was on a Koninklijke Luchtmacht (Royal Netherlands Air Force) AH-64D Apache.

Some of the things I've encountered have raised my eyebrows. There's the "Everything's a Euro" store, and yes, it IS what you would think. There's also Woolworth's stores still here. There's also footbal, American-style. The Weinheim Longhorns play here. And a convertible Mini Cooper will cost you $24,000.

The weather here is everything I've ever heard. The week I arrived it was quite warm (highs in the 80's, lows in the fifties.) More recently, it has turned into Seattle weather - cold and damp. I've joked that they should have contests in the papers: "Draw the Sun, Win a Prize!"

Nevertheless, the area has entertainment possibilities that blow my mind. I could never imagine such back home in my area. Mannheim has a ballet (I've met one of their ballerinas, a 21-year-old Australian who also tends bar at a local Irish Pub). The city is currently co-hosting the International Ice Hockey Federation World Championships. Additionally, upcoming concerts by Skorpions, a-ha, Deep Purple and Simply Red, to name just four, have caught my eye.

Culturally, the Turkish population in Germany is to this country what Mexicans are in the US. Turkish restaurants abound, and like most food, I like it. I've also discovered a wonderful Italian store in Lampertheim that specializes in meats, wine and cheeses from Italy. And an ice cream stand near that store has wonderful treats.

Most importantly, I have found a church. The English Church Heidelberg meets in a former convent chapel in the old portion of the city. This area was spared allied bombing in World War Two. The building is small (four rooms if you consider the narthex/lobby, the bell tower, and the main parish), but the church membership is vibrant with a Briton raised in California and his family, some German Anglicans, a wonderful lady from Sierra Leone, to name but a few. Additionally, we have a world-circuit riding Kiwi priest and his wife, who will be here for five more weeks. The building is shared with an Old Catholic church, whose priest serves communion twice-a-month to we Anglicans when we lack a priest.

So, here I am. I'm still unsure about exactly what God wants of me here. But, whatever it is, I am anxious to enjoy Europe as do His work!

Whatever that may be.